The Bay Area’s most scenic drives

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Show of hands from anyone who’s done the 49-mile scenic drive around San Francisco. That’s what I thought. While most everyone has come across the classic seagull signs scattered throughout the city, and have thus found themselves on a section of the famed drive, doing the drive is a little like going to the zoo: you know it’s there but you never think of going it unless a relative comes to visit. And even then, there’s so much on offer that such a drive is probably down the list. I mean, it’s 49 miles, and driving the city’s streets can be a pain. Traffic fatigue can easily blind us, but get away from 101 or the 880, and the Bay Area has some of the most scenic drives you’ll find in any city.

The 49-mile scenic drive
Everyone knows about it, but who’s actually completed the circuit around San Francisco in one fell swoop? The drive is really a roundup of some of the city’s best tourist spots, which was the intention back in 1938 when it was introduced. Start off on the Embarcadero, cruise through SOMA and up and over to Japantown, then back downtown through Chinatown, up to Nob Hill, over to North Beach and Grant Street, then up and through Fisherman’s Wharf. From there it’s along Marina Blvd to the Palace of Fine Arts and through the Presidio to Seacliff, down the Great Hwy and up and through Golden Gate Park, and eventually winding your way up to Twin Peaks. Even if you don’t stop along the way, it’s still a full day of sightseeing.

I-280 – Cupertino to San Francisco
I know, it’s an interstate, but have you ever driven along this 45-mile highway in the afternoon as the fog is rolling over the ridge of the Santa Cruz mountains? Breathtaking. At certain points, you can catch a glimpse of the bay, as well as a lovely view of the Crystal Springs Reservoir near Hwy 92 to Half Moon Bay. What you won’t see is a billboard, or fast food joint, or any other signs that an urban snarl is just over the hill – nothing but open and unspoiled land (thanks Peninsula Open Space Trust, and others). But don’t take my word for it, the Junipero Serra Freeway has been designated as the World’s Most Beautiful Freeway (check the plaque in Daly City). The road also runs parallel with the San Andreas Fault, for all you seismologists.
Berkeley Hills – Grizzly Peak Rd/Wildcat Canyon Rd
This is a nice drive along the western edge atop the Berkeley Hills. The road winds through parts of Tilden Park and the bordering neighborhood, and offers amazing views of the city below, and the bay and San Francisco beyond. It’s stunning at sunset, one of the best in the Bay Area. You also get a flavor of the lovely Berkeley Hills neighborhood.
Hwy 35 – Skyline Blvd
Start from the crossroad with Hwy 92 and head south to Hwy 9 that takes you to Saratoga. Skyline Blvd runs along the spine of the Santa Cruz Mountains, alternating between towering stands of coastal redwoods and open stretches that offer excellent views both east and west. There’s great hiking trails along the road too – just pull over and park at the trailheads and off you go. (Again, props to the Peninsula Open Space Trust.) The roads here are popular on the weekends with bikers and cyclers, and you’ll find them gathering at Alice’s restaurant at the crossroads with Hwy 84, a nice little diner and a great place to relax of an afternoon.
Hwy 1 – Pacifica to Santa Cruz
It’s not quite as magnificent as the stretch farther south in Big Sur, but the gently rolling coastline of bluffs and beaches, and almost zero development, is a great drive for wonderful ocean views. Stop off at one of several beaches along the road (San Gregorio State Beach is especially nice), or stop at one of several small sea-side towns - Half Moon Bay, San Gregorio, Pescadero, Davenport.
Pt. Reyes Petaluma Rd
We started out from Petaluma on a hot day, making our way through the rolling hills and valleys of Marin County, and by the time we arrived at Pt. Reyes Station we needed jackets. It’s incredibly scenic along this not-too-windy road, mostly open spaces with a few farm houses here and there. Near Pt. Reyes, the road bisects the lovely Nicasio Reservoir, with various waterfall splashing about.
Sir Francis Drake Blvd – Pt. Reyes Station to Fairfax
From Pt. Reyes, take Sir Francis Drake back to Fairfax (which continues to Hwy 101). The road cuts through Samuel P. Taylor State Park, and you’re completely lost in the darkness of the forest in this stretch, surrounded by coastal redwoods. There’s also a spectacular view of the valley as you descend along one stretch, with one particular spot where people pull over to gaze (or paint). Stop at a roadside market in Lagunitas, San Geronimo, or check in at the peaceful Spirit Rock Meditation Center and walk the grounds.
Silverado Trail
The roads in Sonoma and Napa are obviously scenic, what with all the rolling hills and vineyards and stuff, but the traffic can be heavy at times with the weekend tourist migration. Hwy 29 is the main thoroughfare through Napa Valley and its many wineries, but running parallel just to the east is Silverado Trail. It’s a more scenic alternative, with views of the valley and its vineyards, and without the traffic.

I-880 – Richmond to Milpitas (j/k)

Hwy 101 – South San Francisco to San Jose (j/k again)

Michelin no-stars are still pretty good

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Every foodie worth their bamboo roasted sea salt knows that for three-star Michelin-rated dining in the Bay Area, there’s The French Laundry and The Restaurant at Meadowood in Napa Valley. They probably even know about our six two-stars, including Coi, Benu and Saison, and maybe even the 34 one-stars.

But how much do they know about my personal favorite category in the Michelin universe – Bib Gourmand – or ‘good cuisine at a reasonable price’. Michelin says: ‘Bib Gourmand restaurants offer two courses and a glass of wine or dessert for $40 or less (tax and gratuity not included), and are often of most value to a city’s residents, who regularly dine in neighborhood restaurants.’ The Bay Area has 70 of them. You may know them as The Slanted Door in downtown, A 16 in the Marina, Burma Superstar in the Inner Richmond, Delfina in the Mission, and other popular and vaunted city restaurants.

I’m especially familiar with one of them, Kabab & Curry’s in Santa Clara. I was a little surprised when I learned my favorite Bay Area Indian restaurant was on the list. Nothing about the place says Michelin anything. The décor is functional, though the dining room and diners seem an afterthought compared to the group of ‘to-go’ patrons milling around the front counter and next to the long folding table where take-out orders are set. And the prices – $20 for two – are not what you’d expect of international award recognition. But the food, well, since dining on Kabab & Curry’s perfectly creamy chicken tikka masala and expertly flavored palak paneer, it’s ruined all my old favorites in and around the city. Even the higher-end white tablecloth places come up short.

I have to respect Michelin for looking past the pedestrian image and rewarding Kabab & Curry’s for doing traditional Indian fare better than anyone else I’ve found. So now I guess I’ll just have to work my way up the list of more Bib Gourmand selections, starting with Wakuriya in San Mateo.

Best hike for amazing views of San Francisco Bay

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There’s a point when you’re hiking up the moderately inclined trail at the Marin Headlands Coastal Trail at Fort Cronkhite, legs pumping, eyes focused on the trail and the surrounding flora, that you come to a level spot and pause to survey the scene. You turn around and… holy cow, what a view: the gleaming Golden Gate Bridge, the sunlight dancing off the ocean, boats trailing plumes of white as they cruise in and out of SF bay, and the city laid out in a patchwork beyond. And you’re only a quarter of the way up the 960-foot summit. Read more »

Craneway’s Chocolate & Beer fest, minus the beer

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What’s up Chocolate & Beer festival? How come you advertise 10 beer companies, but when I drive all the way out to Richmond I only count five. And when I walk up to the table of another, Lost Coast, they’re already out of beer and packing up to leave, and it’s only 3:30. Don’t get me wrong, I like beer, and I’m happy with what you did have*, and for the sunny day by the water at Craneway Pavilion. But that was a lot of money to shell out for an entrance fee, and the price of a beer on top, for just four lousy beer companies. I could’ve had more choices and paid less at pretty much any of my local beer joints, and driven out to Beach Chalet if I wanted a water view. I couldn’t even get a good happy beer buzz. I know you tried to spice it up with the chocolatiers and live music and the jumpy house for the kids, but just like your neighbor to the south, there was no there, there. The whole event was just one big shrug. I’m not unhappy I went, but I doubt I’ll be  back next year, especially with a number of other beer fests +.

*Drakes from San Leandro had a variety of beers on tap. Moksha, a craft brew from India though brewed locally, had bottles of their full-bodied amber lager. Trumer Pils had their usual. And Rosie’s Shipyard Ale brewed by Assemble (formerly the Boilerhouse Restaurant) adjacent to the pavilion may have been my favorite. And that was it.

Best tofu in the Bay Area

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…and freshest, and most authentically Japanese. Located in San Jose’s Japantown, the San Jose Tofu Company is a two-person shop with a woman at the register and a man making tofu in the kitchen behind. And it’s one of the only such shops in the Bay Area to trade in just tofu. They sell a few complimentary items, like rice, ginger and vinegar, but people come for the freshly made hard or soft tofu and still-warm soy milk, and they line up outside to get it. (Actually, the place is so small it only fits one or two customers at a time, but still!) You’ve never had soy milk or tofu that tastes this fresh or good, and for vegetarians and Asian cooks, it’s a must-visit. They also sell okara – basically the film that gets skimmed off during the tofu-making process. It’s considered old people’s food in Japan, but it’s highly nutritious and versatile. The shop sells it plain or as unohana, a dish with sesame oil, diced veggies and soy sauce.

You can make the drive worth-while by checking out the small Japantown, with a number Japanese shops, restaurants, noodle houses and sushi places to choose from.

Another option for fresh-made tofu is Thanh Son Tofu, a Vietnamese run shop in South San Jose.

SF Bay Bridge gets stunning light display

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Here’s a heads up for what promises to be a stunning addition to the Bay Area cityscape. On March 5, in honor of its 75th anniversary, the bay bridge will be lit with 25,000 white LED lights. Each light is individually programmable by the artist behind The Bay Lights project, Leo Villareal, to create complex algorithms and patterns for a dazzling display across the bridge’s west span (the east span will come later). Villareal said it will incorporate 255 levels of brightness, and the lights will be sequenced so the bridge mirrors its surroundings.

The project will continue for two years, with nightly lighting from dusk to midnight. And because it uses energy efficient LEDs, the cost of lighting bridge should be just $30 per day, while it’s estimated to bring an added $97 million to the local economy.

The Bay Area’s greenest buildings

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California is a tough place for a green building to stand out. Since the state instituted the CALGreen building codes in 2011, essentially requiring most all new buildings to be the equivalent of basic LEED certified, builders have to go the extra green mile to gain any recognition. Not only that, the progressive attitude toward environmental issues and sustainability has put California on the forefront of green building practices for decades. According to the US Green Building Council (USGBC.org), California has over 1,700 LEED certified buildings, by far the most of any state in the country. Check out this list of LEED certified buildings in the Bay Area. Read more »

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